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my a1 crapped the bed on me in3 days and kept throwing codes for LOOSE WIRES when they were brand spanking new, i sent back for the p1s with 2 AMS just shoulda went to the p1s for 4-16 colors instead of a1 just 4...

thanks so much for the review, is there a better option for a large printer of od similar price please? to consider

Awesome and informative content my friend. The tip of creating a different filament profile in Orca slicer to hold each PA setting is so freaking helpful. Thanks for sharing with us.

I really like the sharp, abrupt tip on this one. I bet it prints PETG much better than most nozzles because there's not a whole lot of surface area for the petg to stick too and slide up the side of the nozzle. I use a diamondback and i don't think it's great for petg for this very reason.

Way. Come a long way.

Now imagine if this came to support step files.

trying to find a working neptune 3 max bin file

Damit hätten wir den Krieg gewinnen können.

I hate how modern 3d printer brands (except prusa) act like if you dont have a 700/ms SPEED & 20K ACCEL AND COREXY KINEMATICS AND FULLY ENCLOSED WITH MMU/AMS AND THE ABILITY TO PRINT GLASS-INFUSED CARBON FIBER NYLON AT 500/ms,your printer is a piece of garbage and should be thrown away immediately!

The phrase is, "Champing at the bit."

You don't need to swap the port to control the fan speed.

How come the commands in the video differ from commands in the notes?

Somthing interesting you didnt notice is that the board is basically just an ender 3 32 bot board with a connector solderes in the place of the sd slot and a usb extension ran to the board. I just unplugged the extention for the usb and plugged my pi into the board

How does it compare it to the Neptune 4?

How to specify the printing position of the model, not the position of the printed 3D model inserted with the mouse on the screen, but the position of the specified X, Y axis value, which is the placement of the 3D model with the surrounding rectangle of the virtual size: the lower left corner is the determining or middle! This is important because the position of the 3D model that is currently inserted and visible on the desktop cannot be set exactly, but if it is possible to determine, for example, where the center of the 3D model should be when printing and print the 3D model in relation to it, and not where it was graphically inaccurately placed in the slicer. During later printing, a 3D model that has been re-scanned in a file will certainly not be placed where it was before, but if it can be specified in the position set on the X and Y axes, place the model before starting the print, e.g. the program manages to place the bottom left corner of the model's virtual enclosing frame or the center of the model in the position X=78, Y=62 in the program, and in another time, X= 76 Y=66, but I want the specified X and Y position the model and start printing accordingly, that is, it doesn't matter where I put the model on the print table area in the program, but place the 3D model in the given value of X=75, Y= 60 in the code and start printing like this. And is the position of the 3D model specified in this way the point of the bottom left corner of the virtual bounding rectangle or the center point?

This is now my dream machine as a tinkerer. I want this even more than I want a bambulab. The multi toolhead mod also seems to be going well.

bit of a shame on 0.5mm orifice. I mainly print 0.4 and often go to 0.2 for the x and Y details (Not the z detail, which is layer height) that are totally impossible with 0.4 and bigger.

Small correction: the board may seem superficially like the Skipr, but it differs significantly in components and construction. The SOC and related components are basically the same as the BTT CB1, to the point where Sovol is actually using the CB1 OS image. The MCU side is incredibly similar to the FYSTEC Cheetah V1.1. It looks like they either share a reference implementation, or one heavily inspired the other. There are more than a few ways Sovol didn't, uh... cite their sources for the design. All that being said, I'm happy I got one, warts notwithstanding. As always, great video, and I'm glad you covered this printer!

What is it that stops this from being a "budget voron"?

8:20 Please pick your words more carefully. Language is a powerful tool. By careless use you are, I hope accidentally, condoning and normalizing slavery. May I suggest _leader_ and _client_ to use instead?

Bit clunky of a release, but they at least seem willing to improve stuff, which is always nice

Excellent, balanced, detailed and honest review. This will help people decide of its right for them (and it will be for many) or if something else would be better, and shares info that will save a lot of pain for those who do opt for it. A model for what a good review should be. Kudos and thanks!

This is the next big upgrade I was thinking about.

Sounds like its a good machine if you are not a beginner, because while very capable it can only reach its potential with fine tuning, as opposed to bambu that has very tuned slicer profiles on release. Most people forget that the quality also comes from good settings not just the machine itself.

Sounds like its a good machine if you are not a beginner, because while very capable it can only reach its potential with fine tuning, as opposed to bambu that has very tuned slicer profiles on release. Most people forget that the quality also comes from good settings not just the machine itself.

Im really waiting for updates for multi color technology….bambulab with ams win the market…and voron isnt make alternative (ERCF is really not popular option ) . sovol promote the mukticolor in the future

PETG sticks to TPU very-very good. So, this is possible to print a body with ideally controlled vibrations.

I received my SV08 in the first batch of preorders. I have the same power supply AND the exact same shipping damage as you. I also am thinking I will never get to use the official enclosure as a result. However I’m not too upset. I don’t often print with advanced filaments that need an enclosure, and when I do, I have an X1 Carbon.

Great video, very thorough. It was reaffirming to see that such an experienced reviewer had more or less the same conclusion!

I ordered mine in late April. No word, yet...

why no active heated chamber?? its 2024

I ALMOST got one of these but after measurering i had nowhere to fit it. I ended up getting an Anycubic Kobra 2 Plus. Im really surprised how good it turned out being. Not sure why people give Anycubic a bad name.

Great information. This may be the core zy I've been waiting for.

Hoping they take your and other reviewer’s suggestions!

DON'T BE FOOLED The sovol sv08 has MANY manufacturing issues. Specially the press fit nozzle that came out by itself.

Nice review, 2.4 is the only Voron at this point I haven't built and with Sovol SV08 coming out I am not even sure if it's the best time to build one, especially if we take in consideration how much more accessible fast and quality 3D printing became in last 1.5 years. The only question left standing is it really worth to go for such overcomplicated kinematics.

The belt material affects the frequency... They have had tool like this since the V-belt days

Did you say a free fan upgrade or something? I couldn't quite make it out. Could you possibly repeat what you said about fixing the fan?

This is the stealth burners special needs cousin.

Been watching this. Maybe I'll buy in the second production run when they've flogged the early bugs out.

4:58 "There is a large piece of sheet metal" <_< I see what you did here

Actually instead of letting the printer cool down between prints to avoid z-shift, I prefer to preheat the bed (and chamber on printers with heated chamber, like Qidi´s X-Max 3) and than wait for 10 minutes or more before calibrating the z- offset. This gives realy great 1st layers, as the probe has already reached a contant temperature, so no further drift. Also a bed needs some time to fully heat (thermistor is on the underside of the bed, not on the surface). So it is a good idea to probe the bed only after everything is heated finaly and every stess due to heating the bed is released and the deformation of the bed is finalized. There are always two reasons the first layer isn´t perfect: Temperature drift of the probe itself and the bed still deforming while printing. You can reduce the first problem with other probes - like klicky, tab, load cell using the nozzle as probe. But the only way to reduce the second one still is preheating the bed and wait untill all deformation has settled. On my x-max 3 there is even a sticker telling you to wait untill the temperature is settled. However, no 3d-printer manufacter seem to implement this in their slicer profiles. The reason is quite simple: Many reviewers tell you how fast the printer comes to temperature and start printing and compare it with other printers. So instead to tune the slicer profile for optimal 1st layer in print profile (start g-code) by adding a "G4 P600000" (10 minutes, time is in miliseconds, on my x-max 3 I use 20 minutes) after the bed has reached temperatur on the underside, the profiles start abl right after the bed tells it reached temperature - much to early. Not every model does need it. A benchy f.e. will mostly look fine without wait, an also with PLA no big deal. However, bigger objects, esp. if the bottom layer is the later top of the object (panels etc.), or dificult materials (PA12, esp without CF) or simply testing how good the printer can do if optimal handled, you definitly should take your time untill everything is heated before doing ABL.

I found the e3d revo heatsink adapter on pcbway and I'm curious to know your thoughts on it. Part of the reason that it's appealing is that the nozzle won't slip out because it would no longer be press fit into the hotend like the original is (which may be contributing to your inconsistent z offset). Could you look into this a little for us? And let us know what you think about it? Thanks.

Seems like a good printer though I don't care for the small display.

So glad you have tryed the easy sand PLA and shared your experience as i have been trying to hold of some but its always sold out now i know not to bother 👍.

Yeh your lucky, i live in manchester england and trust me with the exception of mid summer even PLA needs drying or it strings/angel hairs like crazy or at least Elegoo PLA dose as thats what i used mostly untill recently i have started pring a tone of stuff with ASA as i replaced all my printers with ones that have heated chambers.

This is a great machine from what I have seen. But Sovol was completely unprepared for shipping. Orders have been delayed for months. Pretty much all video and content creators got them.. but customers aren’t as many as they should be. Hope they get this all worked out.

The big question is, would u buy it with ur own money? Curious minds wanna know. Lol

I don't know what you're doing or not, but I haven't had a z offset problem with the Q1 pro, i cant wait to get my Sv08

Great review, thank you so much for your hard work. I pre-ordered one of these a couple of months ago. I am looking forward to trying it out and upgrading it. Would you mind telling me what the hottest temp you have used on the hot end of this printer?